SLEEPER SACK – Knit version

This is a sleeper sack design for burial/bereavement garments for The Preemie Project. My goal was to create a garment that is suitable for boys as so many of the garments patterns currently available for these tiny ones are, though lovely, very feminine appearing.

Pattern: Sleeper Sack (Adapted from Preemie Kimono by Lois Walters)
Size: Less than 1 lb baby [1-3 lb baby, 3-5 lb baby]
Yarns Used: TLC Baby [Bernat Softee Baby, Baby Bee Sweet Delight Yarn]
Needles: US 3 (3.25 mm) [4 (3.5 mm), 4 (3.5 mm)] straight or circular (plus double pointed needles in same size you use for the body if you wish to knit the arms in the round (optional))
Gauge: Note: Gauge is not critical, as babies come in all sizes.
Finished Measurements:
Chest: 6-1/2″ [8", 10"] measured at underarms with button band buttoned.
Length: 12″ [13", 17"] from top of neck to hem (the University of Iowa NICU nurses have requested this length — when in doubt make it longer rather than shorter, preemies are often proportionately longer and thinner than full-term babies).
Notions:Ribbon for ties. Buttons if desired.

Note: This garment is designed so that it can be used with the opening in the front or in the back, so the person dressing the baby can choose which is most appropriate.

Cast on 27 [27, 34] stitches.

Neck:
Row 1: K1, P1 ribbing across
Row 2: K2, YO, K2tog, continue K1 P1 ribbing across to last 4 stitches, K2tog, YO, K2.
On third row place markers: placing markers after 6 stitches, 4 stitches, 7 stitches and 4 stitches (with 6 stitches remaining after the last marker).

On all remaining body rows knit first 4 and last 4 stitches to make garter stitch back edge.

Body:
Knit body in stockinette stitch (knit right-side rows, purl wrong-side rows).

Increase knit rows one stitch before and after each marker, until middle section measures approx 2-1/4″ [2-1/2", 3"] measured from the cast-on edge.

On next knit row, make an eyelet at beginning of row (K2, YO, K2tog), knit to first marker CO 2 stitches, remove marker, place all stitches until next marker on a stitch holder (sleeve), remove marker, knit across front to next marker and remove it, CO 2 stitches, place all stitches until next marker on holder (sleeve) and continue to last 4 stitches, make another eyelet (if desired, see notes* below regarding closure options).

Continue body in stockinette stitch until desired length, as above, making eyelets at approximately even intervals until within 3 or 4 inches of desires length.

Make drawstring row by K1, YO, K2tog across row.
Purl next row
Bind off next row.

Pick up sleeve stitches on DPNs and knit 10 [15, 20] rows in stockinette, then 3 rows in K1,P1 ribbing and bind off. (Alternatively, knit back and forth and then sew up sleeve seam.) Repeat with second sleeve.

*Closure options: If you plan to use ribbons or crocheted chains for ties in back, make an eyelet on both edges of the placket to run ribbon through. If you plan to use buttons, make an eyelet on one side of the placket. I ultimately decided to use a ribbon closure for the neck edge and buttons down the back. The bottom is closed with ribbon.

This pattern was developed for charity use. If you make one for your own personal use, please consider making another for charity.

For further information on seamless construction (as used in this garment) see the Simply Seamless article at The Inside Loop.

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PDF: Sleeper sack – knit version

SLEEPER SACK – Crochet version

pardon the bad picture, it was taken at night in poor lighting

Materials:
Baby Yarn (I used Baby Bee Sweet Delight Baby)
4.25 mm hook (US size G)

Size: Chest is approx 8 to 8-1/2 inches around so should fit a 1-3 lb baby. (I’ll work on other sizes, but you should be able to adapt this pattern pretty readily on your own.)

Abbreviations:
dc= double crochet
hdc= half double crochet
sc= single crochet
ch= chain
sl= slip stitch
st/sts= stitch/stitches
inc= hdc twice in st
pm= place marker (I use a short length of scrap yarn and just lay it
between stitches, but you can use stitch markers or safety pins)

Notes: I envision these sleepers being used with the buttons in the back for ease in dressing the baby, but most people see the button side as the front, so the sleeper is designed to be used both ways to allow the person dressing the baby to use whichever side is easiest.

Gauge is not critical, whatever size it turns out to be will fit some baby. Because these sleepers are intended to dress the tiniest, most fragile babies, please choose a gauge that results in a loose, supple fabric, but does not leave holes for the baby’s hands and feet to get caught on, or to be seen through. Families prefer that the baby looks “warm” in the garment, so there should be no open holes. This sleeper is crocheted using half double crochet throughout, but obviously other stitch patterns could be used, especially for the body of the gown — just make sure it’s not too lacy.

Starting from neck, form bodice:
Chain 27
Row 1: hdc in second chain from hook and each remaining chain, placing markers after 5, 4, 7, and 4 sts (25 sts); ch 2, turn.
Row 2: hdc across, increasing in st before and after each marker (moving markers to current row as you go); ch 2, turn.
Repeat Row 2 until garment measures about 2-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches from neck edge.

Next row: hdc to first marker, join with first stitch after second marker (skipping stitches in between markers), hdc to next marker, join with stitch after fourth marker (again skipping stitches in between markers), hdc to end; ch 2, turn. (Skipped stitches form sleeve caps and will be picked up later to form sleeves).

Body:
Row 1: Hdc across; ch 2, turn.
Repeat row 1 until body measures about 12″ from neck edge. On last row ch 3 instead of 2, turn.

Eyelet row: *dc, ch 1 (skip hdc); repeat from * to end of row. Fasten off.

Sleeve:
Row 1: Hdc in each stitch around, picking up one or two sts under arm to avoid holes; sl into first stitch of round, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Hdc in each stitch around; sl into first stitch of round, ch 2, turn.
Repeat row 2 until sleeve measures approx 3-1/2 inches. Fasten off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Single crochet evenly around all edges (except sleeves), ending with buttonhole band edge (right front); ch 1, turn.
sc back along buttonhole band edge, placing button holes at even intervals along band (ch 1, skip sc to make button hole). Fasten off.

Sew buttons on opposite front edge to match buttonhole placement. Insert ribbon or crocheted tie in eyelet row at bottom.

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CROCHET BURIAL WRAPS

Inspired by Betsy Dey’s knitted fetal demise pouch

These wraps are designed to hold the tiny preemie babies that are too small or fragile to be dressed in other types of garments. They are used both to present the babies to the families and for burial if the family chooses, and may be kept as mementos.

Notes:

* Wrap is crocheted in two parts, a mitered square for the back (blanket) portion of the wrap, and a mitered triangle for the pouch, then joined with single crochet.
* I like to start my miters out with a magic adjustable ring to avoid the messy holes I always get with the more traditional way. The more traditional way is to start with a series of chains. Use whichever method you prefer.
* Gauge is unimportant as long as the “holes” in the fabric are small enough that the baby won’t be visible through them (and tiny feet and hands don’t get caught). Start with the hook size suggested on the yarn’s ball band and adjust as needed, keeping the fabric flexible and soft.
* The Preemie Project uses sizes as small as 10″ up to 24-30″ square. (At the time of this writing they are currently more in need of wraps in the medium to larger range.)
* As always, please let me know if something is unclear or incorrect; I am not a skilled pattern writer.

Abbreviations:
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
(This pattern uses American crochet terminology.)

For the mitered square:
Create a magic adjustable ring then make 3 sc in the ring. (Alternatively, chain 2 and make 3 sc in the second stitch from the hook.) Chain one, turn, sc in the first stitch from the hook, make 3 sc in the next stitch, sc in the last stitch. With each successive row, add one more stitch before and after the center increases. So, the directions for Row 3 would read “sc 2, make 3 sc in next st, sc 2,” directions for Row 4 would read, “sc 3, make 3 sc in next st, sc 3,” etc. (I lose count, so I place a split ring as a marker in the middle stitch of the 3-sc increase set. Many people will be able to just see where it goes. Mine wanders, so I mark it.) Continue adding rows in this manner until the square reaches the size you need. Fasten off.

For the mitered triangle:
Begin as you did the square, except start with 5 sc in the ring. (Alternatively, chain four, 2 sc in second stitch from the hook, 3 sc the next stitch and 2 sc in the last stitch.) Continue as for the square except make 2 sc in the first and last stitches in each row.

When the length of outer edges of the triangle match the length of the corresponding edges of your square, in the last row make 3 sc in the very last stitch rather than 2 and continue on with sc across the top edge of the triangle. Chain two, turn, and make 4 dc in the first stitch from the hook. *Skip one stitch and make a sc in the next stitch. Skip one stitch and make 5 dc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * across top of triangle and fasten off. (You may have to adjust your spacing at the end of the row a bit on the scallops, depending on how many total stitches you ended up with. Just fudge it so it looks fairly even.)

Join the triangle to the square:
Two of the edges of the square piece will look neatly finished, the other two edges will look a bit less so. Match these unfinished-looking edges of the square up with the outer edges of the triangle and join them with single crochet stitches, making sure the crochet hook goes through both edges of the fabric (again making three single crochet in the “point”), forming the pouch. At the corner where the triangle stops, start the scalloped edging as you did on the top, flat edge of the triangle, being careful to make extra double crochet stitches in the top point so it flows around the point neatly (making 10 double crochet works fine) and continuing down to the other corner where the pouch begins again. You can continue the scallops all the way around the outside bottom edge of the pouch if you wish, or stop at the corner where the pouch is attached. Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Make a tie:
Make a crochet chain tie or use a ribbon, about 18″ long for a 10-11″ square wrap (longer for larger wraps) and thread it through one corner of the pocket. (The tie will wrap around the “back” of the pouch and close in the front.)

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SEAMLESS BOOTIES

* Yarn: Baby yarn (I used Bernat Softee Baby for the blue ones, and Baby Bee Sweet Delight Prints for the white/pink ones (color: kitty).
* Needles: Size 6 (4 mm) US long circular needle for the “magic loop” method OR two circular needles.
* Gauge: Not critical, I got approximately 5-1/4 stitches per inch with the Baby Softee and not quite 6 stitches per inch with the Baby Bee yarn.
* Sizes: Preemie 1-3 lbs (3-5 lbs; 6-8 lbs)
* Terminology:
M1: Make one. I just knit in the front and the back of the stitch, but use whatever method you prefer.
K2tog: Knit two stitches together.
SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit – slip one stitch as if to knit, slip another stitch as if to knit, stick point of left needle in two slipped stitches in front of the right needle and knit the two stitches together.
References to first and second “needles” actually means the ends of the big circular needle.

Cast on using Turkish cast on with 7 (11, 15) wraps (which will create a total of 14 (22, 30) stitches). (You could also use a figure-of-eight cast on.)

Round 1: Knit
Round 2: K1, M1, K until there is 1 stitch on first “needle”, M1, K2, M1, knit until there is 1 stitch on second “needle”, M1, K1
Round 3: Purl
Round 4: K until there is 1 stitch on first “needle”, M1, K2, M1, knit to end of round
Round 5: Purl
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 twice more.

Continue in garter stitch (alternating knit & purl rows) until there are 5 (6, 7) garter stitch ridges from bottom of foot.

Next round: K until 4 stitches remain on first needle, K2tog, K4, SSK, K to end of round.
Repeat last round until there are a total of 14 (18, 22) stitches total on needles (7, 9, 11 on each needle).

Make cuff: K1 P1 ribbing for 12 (14, 18 ) rows.

Bind off very loosely and weave in ends, closing the gap at the top of the cuff between the first stitch in the bind off row and the last stitch bound off.

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EASY SANTA HAT

Materials:

* Caron Simply Soft yarn, 1 skein red, 1 skein white (or try using a soft, fluffy white eyelash yarn for the brim and pom pom — something like Hobby Lobby’s Frosting in Iced White would be perfect). (With this amount you will have enough for at least two preemie hats plus some booties).
* #6 US knitting needles (straight or circular)
* 1 stitch marker
* 1 yarn needle

Pattern as written will fit a 6-8 lb preemie.*

Instructions:

Cast on 54 stitches using white yarn.

Knit in K1 P1 ribbing for 2-1/2 inches.

Change colors to red and knit each row until piece measures at least 4 inches from cast-on edge.

Knit 27 stitches, place marker, and knit to end of row.

Begin decreasing:

Row 1: K1, K2tog, knit to three stitches before the marker, K2tog, K1, slip marker from left needle to right, K1, K2tog, knit to last three stitches, K2tog, K1.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: Knit across.

Repeat rows 1 through 3 until 6 stitches remain on needles.

Cut yarn long enough to sew seam and run through stitches on needle, pull up tight and sew seam. (Switch to white yarn to sew the cuff seam.) Tie pom-pom securely at tip of hat.

Abbreviations:

* K = knit
* P = purl
* K2tog = knit two stitches together

*Notes:

Try casting on more stitches for larger sized hats and making longer before beginning decreases. See the size chart at The Preemie Project website for further information on other preemie/newborn sizes.

The pattern was written so that the hat could be knitted flat and sewn up by beginning knitters, but knitters familiar with knitting in the round will have no trouble adapting it. It can also be knitted in stockinette stitch instead of garter stitch.

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TINY HATS

To go with the sleepers for <1 lb and 1-3 lb preemies.

Stockinette hats:
Using baby yarn such as TLC Baby (as in the white and blue-striped hat pictured with sleepers at top of page) or Baby Bee Sweet Delight Yarn (as in hats directly above):

Size: &lt;1 lb (1-3 lbs)
Yarn: Baby yarn such as TLC Baby or Baby Bee Sweet Delight
Needles: US 3 double pointed, two circular, or one long circular for “magic loop” method
Gauge: Approximately 5 to 5-1/2 stitches per inch (this is not critical, but should be fairly close, especially if you tend to knit tightly)

Cast on: 32 (40) stitches
Join row.
Knit K1,P1 ribbing for 1 inch.
Knit in stockinette stitch for 1-1/2 (2) inches for a total length of 2-1/2 (3) inches.

Begin decreases:
*K6, K2tog* repeat across row.
*K5, K2tog* repeat across row.
*K4, K2tog* repeat across row.
*K3, K2tog* repeat across row.
*K2, K2tog* repeat across row.
*K1, K2tog* repeat across row.
* K2tog across row. (4 (5) stitches.

Switch to two double pointed needles and make i-cord for approx 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 inches, cut yarn.
With a yarn needle draw tail through the remaining loops, tie i-cord into a knot, and bury and anchor the tail in the tied knot.
Weave in ends.

Ribbed hats:
Size: &lt;1 lb to 3 lbs (this hat is quite stretchy)
Needles: US 3 double pointed, two circular, or one long circular for “magic loop” method
Gauge: Approximately 5 to 5-1/2 stitches per inch (this is not critical, but should be fairly close, especially if you tend to knit tightly)

Cast on 40 stitches.
Join row.
Knit K1,P1 ribbing for about 3-1/2 inches.
K2tog across.
Cut yarn and with a yarn needle draw tail through the remaining loops, pull tight and tie off end on underside of hat.
Weave in ends.
Attach pom pom if desired.

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SPIRAL HAT

Size US9 needles
Worsted weight yarn (my prototypes are Red Heart Kids (a colorful, variegated worsted-weight yarn).

Newborn: Cast on 30; knit to length of 10-10.5″
XL preemie: Cast on 26; knit to length of 9”
L preemie: Cast on 22; knit to length of 8”
M preemie: Cast on 19; knit to length of 7”
S preemie: Cast on 15; knit to length of 6”
XS preemie: Cast on 12; knit to length of 5.5”

Note: Length becomes the circumference of the hat when the seam is sewn up.

Rows 1 & 2: knit
Row 3: K2 tog, K to second to last stitch inc, knit 1
Row 4: K
Repeat rows 3 & 4 to length as above.
Bind off.

Sew seam (this will be a diagonal seam), gather top. Add pompom if desired.

If using baby/sport weight, use smaller needles (try size 6) to make a smaller size hat.

Notes: Gauge is unimportant, just knit to size*. I knit my prototypes in Red Heart Kids (a worsted-weight yarn), because I get tired of all the pastel baby colors. It is semi-soft off the skein, and softens up quite a bit when washed.

*Baby hat lengths (brim to crown, on the above pattern this would be the width of your knitting as cast on).
Newborn: 6 to 6.5″
XL preemie: 5.5″
L preemie: 4.5 to 5″
M preemie: 4 to 4.5″
S preemie: 3.5 to 4″
XS preemie: 3.5″

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